The plus-size market gap luxury brands are missing out on
Plus size is the average size?
Tags
Plus-size fashion, Luxury market, Size inclusivity, Fashion industry
Date
October 15, 2024
Author
Sophie J. Barnes
There’s an interesting discrepancy between the luxury [A target='_self' link='https://dd.agency/fashion']fashion[/A] industry and the reality of its consumers: in the United States, 68 percent of women wear a size 14 or above, while most luxury fashion brands cap their sizing at an 8 or 10.
The reality is that the vast majority of women in countries like the United States, the United Kingdom, Canada, Australia, and beyond are, in fact, classified as ‘plus-size’. But if plus-size represents the average size in many of high fashion’s largest markets, why isn’t it embraced?
The plus-size paradox
The statistics speak for themselves: the global plus-size clothing market was valued at USD 311.44 billion in 2023 and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 4.1% from 2024 to 2030 (Grand View Research). Yet, plus-size representation in high fashion shows no signs of improvement. Data from a 2023 Vogue Business report indicates that of the 9,137 looks showcased in 219 shows across New York, London, Milan, and Paris, a mere 0.6% were plus-size (US 14+), while only 3.8% were mid-size (US 6–12).
With so few examples of plus-size representation on the runway, designers who do opt for the occasional plus- or mid-size model are accused of tokenism (perhaps rightfully so). The same can be said for high-fashion brands offering a limited ‘curve’ or ‘extended size’ collection – the choices are often sparse and not comparable to the full range available to straight-size shoppers. What’s more, the luxury fashion industry has been criticised for using body positivity as a marketing tactic: by including the occasional plus-size model on the catwalk and providing a comparably scant line of plus-size options, luxury brands have not done enough to be considered genuine plus-size advocates and yet have done just enough to keep themselves out of hot water. The lacklustre attempts at size inclusivity have left onlookers with a healthy dose of scepticism and a multitude of unanswered questions regarding the industry’s intent and the authenticity of its supposed advocacy.
source: British Vogue / Getty Images
The impact of changing trends
Exclusivity continues to play a significant role in luxury marketing’s obsession with thinness. This is evident when luxury fashion houses use straight-size models to promote thinness as the epitome of desirability, where thinness itself adds to the exclusivity that enhances the value of luxury brands. The industry has been criticised for adapting too slowly to demands for inclusion and diversity, with many brands still favouring marketing campaigns that uphold thinness as the ultimate beauty ideal. In recent years, the industry has also been accused of backsliding, as the plus size ‘trend’ and body positivity movement lose momentum, giving way to a renewed focus on thinness.
The recent return of Y2K fashion aesthetics has pushed straight sizing further and led to the revival of some of the 90s and early 00s more alarming trends, including the likes of ‘heroin chic’ – a style commonly thought to mirror that of a heroin addict’s frail physique, typically featuring pale skin, dark undereye circles and a very thin figure. The popular ‘size zero’ culture has also returned to centre stage, with brands like Miu Miu creating viral trends from their near-infamous skirt set and Versace’s Jeans Couture SS24 collection recreating styles that mirror the early 2000s obsession with small clothing (and even smaller bodies).
Despite the industry's resistance, a few notable fashion houses are challenging the status quo by embracing size inclusivity and redefining the concept of luxury fashion. Brands like Christian Siriano and Fendi are leading the way in advocating for plus-size fashion within the luxury sphere. Christian Siriano has long been a champion of body inclusivity, showcasing plus-size models on the runway and creating custom, full-range collections that go beyond tokenistic sizing. Fendi, known for its iconic designs and artisanal savoir-faire style, recently extended its range to include plus sizes in its ready-to-wear collections, offering a more diverse size selection that appeals to a broader audience. These brands have sparked a shift, albeit gradual, by proving that luxury and inclusivity can coexist without compromising the brand’s prestige.
And then there are the brands designed and made entirely for plus-size bodies. Although still few and far between, plus-size fashion labels hold considerable potential—if marketed correctly, of course. Unfortunately, plus-size labels have often missed the mark and are commonly associated with off-trend or unstylish looks—a byproduct of a culture that undervalues the need for fashion that makes plus-size women look and feel great. However, brands like [A target='_blank' link='https://dd.agency/projects/yoek']YOEK[/A] have stepped up to the plate by offering styles that are designed, cut and styled specifically for the plus-size silhouette. Their modern brand identity and sleek designs echo the coming of a new era: one that sees the value in creating fashion that is inclusive, desirable and which places plus-sizes at the centre of design.
What’s next?
The path to genuine size inclusivity is clear: brands must adopt solutions that are bold, actionable, and rooted in a sincere commitment to diversity. To close the gap in representation, we need to go beyond occasional gestures and commit to normalising body diversity on the runway by featuring models of all sizes – not just one or two as a tokenistic afterthought. True inclusivity means designing with diverse body types in mind, moving away from simply scaling up straight-size designs and instead crafting luxury pieces that flatter and celebrate a variety of shapes.
Equally important is authentic advertising that goes beyond tokenism, allowing consumers to see themselves reflected in the luxury sphere. Standardising sizing within the industry could further enhance the shopping experience, reducing the frustration that comes from inconsistent measurements and empowering consumers. Brands can also benefit from investing in training programs, equipping design teams to create for all body types and educating retail staff to offer meaningful support to plus-size customers.
Finally, listening to the plus-size community is key. By tuning in to their experiences and feedback, brands can shape collections that feel intentional, rather than performative. Moving forward, luxury fashion has a chance to redefine beauty standards by consistently showcasing size diversity and dismantling outdated stereotypes. The question remains: will it be done? This shift isn’t just an opportunity to fill a market gap – it’s an invitation to lead the industry into a future where luxury is synonymous with inclusivity. If designers work to create space for plus-size representation, they can also provide a glimpse of what the future of luxury fashion could look like: one that embraces diversity not as a fleeting trend but as a standard.
